Cincinnati, OH surprised me in the best ways. I had no idea how significant Cincinnati’s role was in the Underground Railroad or how connected Harriet Beecher Stowe was to the city. I loved experiencing Black-Owned Cincinnati, OH, in so many layers, from Black art and music to the entrepreneurs and businesses that continue to shape the city today.
It was a city I had been wanting to visit for years. I actually have a Google Doc dating back to 2018 with Cincinnati on my list, although at the time it wasn’t specifically a Black-owned Cincinnati guide.
When I finally made it there eight years later, it was as an add-on to my Lexington, KY trip. While the cities are only about two hours apart, they offer completely different experiences. I’m so glad I made that decision because I left Cincinnati thinking, “I could actually see myself living here.” There were moments where Cincinnati reminded me of Brooklyn.
It is also truly an underrated Amtrak travel destination. I actually took the nearly 24-hour Cardinal Amtrak route from NYC to Cincinnati with my mom!
So if you’ve ever wondered:
How to spend a day in Black-Owned Cincinnati, OH?
What is it like traveling while Black in Cincinnati, OH?
This one-day Black-owned Cincinnati, OH, guide is for you. I organized it with public transportation in mind, making it easier to explore the city without needing a car.
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Literally, these might be the largest pancakes I’ve ever had, and they were gooooood! I also sampled my mom’s grits, and they were on point. Washing it all down with sweet tea made for the perfect Southern-inspired breakfast.
I already knew I would return for the chicken and waffles. Unfortunately, when I came back for dinner one night, they had already sold out, so I guess that’s just another reason I need to return.
If you’re visiting Thursday through Saturday, prioritize a guided tour of the Harriet Beecher Stowe House.
I learned so much during this tour, including the story behind how Uncle Tom’s Cabin came to be. What surprised me was learning that Harriet Beecher Stowe’s journey was connected to Cincinnati. After witnessing the horrors of slavery, including a visit to a slave auction that deeply impacted her, she was inspired to write one of the most influential books in American history.
Uncle Tom’s Cabin became the second most translated book in the world after the Bible and played a major role in shaping conversations about slavery and abolition.
What I also loved was learning about the Black history connected to the home after Stowe. The property was later owned by a Black family who operated the Edgemont Inn, a hotel featured in the Green Book, providing a safe space for Black travelers during segregation.
The tour also highlights other important Black figures and abolitionists connected to Cincinnati, including James Bradley, who purchased his freedom and became a powerful advocate for abolition. He was the only Black person to speak during the historic anti-slavery debates at Lane Seminary. You’ll also learn about Margaret Garner, who escaped slavery in Kentucky, crossed into Cincinnati, and became one of the most well-known freedom seekers connected to the Underground Railroad because of what happened after her slave escape, involving local and national officials.
This stop sets the foundation for what you’ll discover next at the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center and through the historic markers throughout Covington. For more on exploring Black history across the river, check out my Black-owned Covington day guide.
The National Underground Railroad Freedom Center is an absolute must when visiting Cincinnati. It was honestly one of the main reasons I wanted to visit, and it did not disappoint.
Now, if you’re like me and love watching every video and reading every exhibit, you could easily spend hours here. The museum has several theaters throughout the space featuring powerful films that bring these stories to life.
What I appreciated most was how the museum connects historical forms of slavery to modern forms of human trafficking, while also highlighting the abolitionists of the Underground Railroad and the courageous journeys of freedom seekers. It doesn’t just focus on struggle; it also celebrates Black joy and creativity through exhibits like the Fisk Jubilee Singers and the artistry of quilting.
Before you leave, make sure to step outside to see the Eternal Flame on the second-floor terrace, a powerful symbol of remembrance and hope.
Just a short walk from the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center is the Cincinnati Black Music Walk of Fame, which celebrates Black music legends with ties to the city.
You’ll discover stories of artists like The Isley Brothers, who were born in Cincinnati, and James Brown, who had ties to the city through the music industry. This is a great stop for both kids and adults because it’s incredibly interactive. You can listen to music, create your own beats, watch artist interviews, and explore exhibits through the digital displays.
And the best part? Admission is free!
From the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center, walk back to catch the free streetcar to Findlay Market, the oldest continuously operating public market in Ohio. The vibe reminded me of Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia, with local vendors, food, and a strong sense of community.
Findlay Market has several Black-owned vendors you can support, and during my visit, they were all dessert spots, making for a great Black-owned dessert crawl.
Makers & Bakers:
I loved their Oreo cheesecake bar. Sooo good! The salted chocolate chip cookie was also amazing. I actually came back for a second one and had to stop myself from buying the rest so another customer could enjoy the last one.
Sweet Mae’s Cookie Company:
Located outside, at the back of the market, they serve massive cookies that are perfect for a sweet tooth.
Bouchard’s Bakery & Pasta:
Known for their fresh pasta and pies, I was lucky enough to try their berry pie right out of the oven, and it was incredibly warm and decadent. Pair it with ice cream from the market, and you have the perfect treat. I also loved that Findlay Market has plenty of indoor and outdoor seating without feeling overly crowded.
If you visit Thursday through Friday, the Contemporary Arts Center stays open later until 7 pm, making it a great stop after Findlay Market.
During my visit, I discovered the work of Gee Horton, an artist I didn’t know before my trip, and I was blown away by his creativity and the different mediums he uses. I also happened to stumble upon a craft workshop, and my mom and I were completely locked in.
Why not have your day come full circle? End your day with dinner at Soul Secrets, a Black-owned restaurant in Cincinnati.
I would definitely return because I still need to try their fried chicken and mac and cheese. My biggest tip: don’t wait until close like I did. They had already run out of several items on the menu, so go earlier if there are specific dishes you want to try.
Watch on Instagram and YouTube.
Cincinnati is absolutely worth turning into a long weekend. There were still so many places I didn’t get a chance to experience, including several Black-owned businesses that are now on my list for my next visit.
One of the best parts about visiting Cincinnati is how easy it is to add Covington, Kentucky, to your trip. Located just across the river, you can even take a boat over and experience a completely different vibe.
While Covington is technically in the South, it honestly gave me more Northern and Midwest energy. Parts of it reminded me of Brooklyn, especially the mix of Park Slope charm and Manhattan-style walkability. It also has a very progressive, community-focused feel that makes it worth exploring.
Because Covington has its own unique Black history, culture, and businesses to discover, I created a separate Black-Owned Covington, KY itinerary to help you make the most of your visit.
Definitely. Everywhere I went in Cincinnati, I saw Black people, and I loved to see it. That visibility makes sense when you look at the demographics. Cincinnati has approximately 315,663 residents, with Black residents making up about 36.5% of the population. White residents make up about 49%, while approximately 9% identify as multiracial, 6.1% as Hispanic or Latino, and 2.7% as Asian.
I noticed that diversity firsthand while riding public transportation and the streetcar. I didn’t feel like I was surrounded by one particular racial or ethnic group. Instead, I experienced Cincinnati as a fairly diverse city where I regularly encountered people from different backgrounds.
Of course, that diversity isn’t necessarily distributed evenly throughout the city. I noticed more Black residents around areas like the Harriet Beecher Stowe House, while downtown, particularly around the stadiums, I encountered more White residents. But overall, I never felt like Black people were hard to find or that I was the only Black person in the room.
I also loved seeing Black people owning and operating businesses throughout Cincinnati. There was certainly no shortage of places to support, including at Findlay Market. As someone who intentionally looks for Black-owned businesses when I travel, it was refreshing to see Black entrepreneurship woven into the city rather than having to search hard to find it.
For me, that visibility matters. Seeing Black people living, working, creating, and owning businesses in a destination can make a place feel more familiar and welcoming. In Cincinnati, I didn’t feel like a Black traveler who happened to be passing through. I felt like I could actually see myself as part of the city.
Cincinnati felt very safe to me. In fact, I felt so comfortable there that I could genuinely imagine myself moving to the city. I was able to get around with ease using public transportation, which made exploring the city feel even more accessible and comfortable as someone who doesn’t drive.
More importantly, I felt like I belonged. There was something about the overall environment that made me feel like I could see myself building a life there, not just visiting. I also noticed a visible commitment to inclusion, with LGBTQ+ and Black Lives Matter flags displayed throughout the city.
Overall, Cincinnati felt like a progressive and welcoming city, and that feeling extended across different racial groups. I also appreciated that the city’s history, particularly its connection to slavery and the Underground Railroad, isn’t something it seems to shy away from.
At the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center, for example, the history is presented openly, including Cincinnati’s own complicated role in that history. I appreciated seeing a city willing to acknowledge both the history that happened there and its role in it rather than glossing over the uncomfortable parts.
That made a difference in how I experienced Cincinnati as a Black traveler. For me, feeling welcomed isn’t just about whether people are friendly. It’s also about whether a place acknowledges its history, creates visible signs of inclusion, and makes you feel like you have a place there. Cincinnati did all three for me.
If I had to describe Cincinnati in three words, they would be: progressive, diverse, and aware.
I spent a few days in Cincinnati, and by the time I left, I honestly didn’t want to go. There was something about the city that just clicked for me. As I walked around, rode the streetcar, attended events, and interacted with people, I kept thinking, I could actually see myself living here. It reminded me of some of the things I love about the Northeast: diversity, progressiveness, and an awareness of the city’s history.
When it comes to Black culture and vibes, Cincinnati has a lot to offer. It is not a small city for sure! Whether you want Black history, art, culture, businesses, or outdoor concerts, there is always something happening. I especially loved how many free events there were and how people from all different backgrounds showed up to enjoy them.
Cincinnati felt like a city I was participating in rather than simply visiting. By the end of my trip, it had unexpectedly become one of my favorite cities I’ve visited. I left thinking, “Wait… could I actually live here?” And honestly, that says a lot coming from NYC.
Cincinnati was one of those trips that reminded me why I love exploring cities through a Black travel lens. I came with expectations, but I left completely surprised.
What stood out to me was how many layers Cincinnati holds. It’s a city where you can learn about freedom seekers and abolitionists, stand in spaces connected to the Underground Railroad, experience Black music and art, and support entrepreneurs continuing to shape the city today.
I also didn’t expect Cincinnati to feel so familiar. From the neighborhoods that reminded me of Brooklyn to the walkability and access to public transportation, I found pieces of home in a city I had never visited before.
Eight years after first adding Cincinnati to my travel list, I finally made it there, and I can confidently say it was worth the wait. Whether you’re visiting for the history, food, culture, or Black-owned businesses, Cincinnati deserves a spot on your travel list. Cincinnati definitely is worth a visit!
This post is part of my 50 States Challenge, where I document my journey as a Black woman visiting all 50 states by 50. As a U.S. travel enthusiast and Black travel curator, my goal is to build the largest collection of Black-owned travel guides and reflections on traveling while Black.
Through Unlock Black Journeys: The Podcast, I am also archiving the Black experience across all 50 states, one conversation at a time.
Ohio is the 32nd state I have traveled to. I’ve traveled to Cleveland, Cincinnati, Sandusky, and the Great Lakes Islands of Put-in-Bay and Kelley Island.
Would you visit Cincinnati, OH?
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Welcome to the Franny the Traveler blog! I’m Dr. Franny, a national award-winning educator, entrepreneur, author, and Black travel enthusiast on a personal mission to make every destination a Black-owned destination. As I visit all 50 states and 50 countries by age 50, this Black travel blog is a growing collection of Black-owned city guides, itineraries, travel tips, and reflections on traveling while Black for the conscious traveler. I’m so happy you’re here!
